After a day in a sweaty bus going up and down dodgy switch-back roads, I finally made it to my destination: the Pacific Ocean. My first mission was to find a surfboard that works for me. After running around the little town and literally looking at over 200 surfboards it dawned at me how spoiled I was in Hawai’i. All I did back home was call my shaper Wade Tokoro and order a new surfboard. Wade took care of the rest and shaped me my magic board.
Here at the end of the road, I was on my own. After a two-day hunt for my magic board I finally found something that was thick enough to not sink underneath my round belly.
My second mission was to find good waves.
Thanks to my good buddy who picked me up the next day that mission worked out beautifully. We pulled up to the beach and found empty barrels at Playa Hermosa with only a few obstacles blocking the view.
Let’s just say we were in our boardshorts and ready to paddle out in no time.
When running down the beach I couldn’t believe my luck: Here I am in Costa Rica at a beautiful beach with perfect waves, a good surf buddy and nobody out! My excitement reached boiling point when the next set rolled in and I realized just how big and hollow the waves really are.
A perfect session with a good friend and no words needed to explain how great a welcome Costa Rica offered me. That great feeling lasted until I snapped my new board into two pieces at the same beach just a few hours later.
Oh well!
Life is always a balancing act and after every high comes a low. But are the highs worth the risk of feeling low? My answer: Anytime!
What’s your answer?
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