During northern hemispheres winter time the North Shore on the island of Oahu in Hawai’i is the place to be if you are a surfer. Not only are you in absolute paradise with palm fringed golden sand beaches, but you are also able to surf the biggest waves of you life – guaranteed! The Winter of 2010 was one of the best winters in years and waves where consistently so big that you could not surf most of the spots. But, hey, when the waves are so ginormous that all your favorite surf spots are maxed out the watching from the beach is breathtaking. How else would you describe all the hell-man tackling waves that are consistently over 15 meters high? It’s crazy stuff out in the ocean. Like all of us mere mortal souls there was no way I would go into the water that day to try my luck and get a piece of the action for myself. Don’t get me wrong I surfed and wiped-out plenty of big waves before, but when it is that big it’s another league all by itself.
The one spot on the North Shores seven mile miracle you want to be when the swell is huge is Waimea Bay. A big wave surfers dream spot and a scary spectacle when the waves are firing. So on one of those big wave mornings I hiked through the bush to watch the best big wave show on earth from high atop the cliffs. What I found was Waimea Bay absolutely firing.
Just look closely at the picture above and you can spot all the surfers scrambling over the shoulder of the wave. On the right hand sinde, you can see a little dot in front of the breaking wave. That dot is actually a lifeguard on a jet ski who just surfed down the wave to measure its actual height – what a crazy job that has to be! After this monster wave closed out the entire bay I counted 7 snapped boards and prayed with 7 brave waterman who started to swim the mile back to the beach. Imagine being out there trying to fight your way back to shore with monster waves crashing on your head and a strong current pushing you out to the ocean. Really, not my picture of a happy space….unless you made it onto a wave like the one below!
After measuring the waves…remember the crazy jet-ski guy from the first picture – the contest directors decided to run the famous big wave Eddi Aikau contest. Shortly after, the best big wave surfers in the world paddled out to put on a dramatic spectacle while I was happily sitting in my chair, eating my cookies and was glad not to be in the water.
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